Day 3

It rained all night. That's what it is supposed to do during the rainy season. As we had to go to the toilet every two hours (apparently that is normal as the body adjusts to the altitude), that was a major nuisance. The toilet building was about 100 m away from our hut and putting on and taking off rain gear is not the most peaceful way of spending the night.

When we were woken up at 7 am, it was still raining. We decided to postpone our departure until 8:30, but when that time came, it was raining even harder. At nine o'clock we left, tucked into our rain gear, and with only the most essential in our backpacks. With us were Frederick, Hesbon, and Pitamalia, one of the porters. They left all gear behind and had just a poncho.

The path had turned into a torrential stream, sometimes ankle deep. It's amazing how good gear can keep you dry. Thanks to our gaiters our shoes managed to remain dry. Poor Pitamalia was waking upfront in a pair of old suede shoes. Frederick admonished us to go slowly, for we were going to climb almost 1000 m in less than 6 km. Pole pole as they say in Swahili.

After about an hour, the rain gave way to a thick, wet mist and we arrived at Zebra Rock. As the name suggests, this rock is a rock cliff with black and white zebra-like stripes caused by mineral deposits.

We were now above the last water point. That means that any water, for drinking, cooking, washing needs to be carried up from here. Something we will need to deal with tomorrow as we will leave this point behind us.

As the mist thinned out, a watery sun appeared and we caught an occasional glimpse of the jagged peaks of Mawenzi, the second highest peak on Kilimanjaro and the third highest in Africa. The last ascent was 10 years ago and 4 of the 10 climbers perished. The Park service no longer permits climbing that peak.

The climb was becoming arduous as the air thinned out above 4000 m. We walked in silence, mechanically placing one foot in front of the other, inhaling and exhaling with each step.

Hakuna matata (no worries) said Frederick. Another hour and we would be at Mawenzi hut. The steepest and hardest part of the climb was ahead, but the weather turned sunny and we were treated to magnificent views of Mawenzi.

Mawenzi hut, at 4513 m, is an abandoned corrugated hut that could accommodate nine climbers before their ascent of Mawenzi peak. We had a snack in the sun and enjoyed the magnificent view of snow covered Kibo, our goal, some 10 kilometers away.

The way down was fast and fortunately we didn't get rained on. We reached Horombo, which was veiled in a thick fog fog, at 2:30 pm. A nice hot lunch was awaiting us. After lunch Marc and I crawled into our sleeping bags for a nice two hour nap, then we were woken up for dinner. Another four-course meal.

We'll need the calories as we ascend 1 km in altitude over a 10-km long path. The plans have changed a bit. Instead of going to Kibo huts, we will be going to School hut, which in spite of its name is not a hut, but a camp site. So, we better enjoy the relative comfort of our hut tonight. School hut is our camp for two nights. I'm curious how sleeping in a tent will be at 4700 m.

We are going to bed early as we are getting up at 6:20 tomorrow. The plan is to get to School Hut for a late lunch tomorrow and not eat along the way. I am not sure about cellular reception at School Hut, so I'm not sure I'll be able to post what I write until we are back at Horombo on our descent. Hakuna matata -- we'll be alright.



Mawenzi hut, 4513 m

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Location:Horombo Huts, Kilimanjaro, Tanzania