"Pole, pole"
The path climbs steeply out of Horombo huts. Behind me is Marc, followed by Hesbon. The four of us walk in lockstep with the regularity of a mechanical clock. It is 8:30.
At 6:30 we had been woken up to a gorgeous sunrise with the usual cup of hot tea. The clouds had lowered and we were treated to a pristine blue sky. Both Kibo and Mawenzi were covered in fresh snow.
After an hour the first porter overtook us. It's an amazing sight to see them walk up, carrying a 20-kg load on their head as well as a back pack. They walk carrying all the gear, food, water for the entire party as if they are walking in the park. "Mambo!" (What's up?). "Poa!" (Cool!). I watch in amazement as he passes us walking on sandals. It's embarrassing at the same time to be treated to all this luxury in one of the world's poorest countries.
After an hour and a half we reach the Last Water Point (see photo). From here on all water needs to be carried up. Imagine the amount our party needs: fourteen of us, three liters per day each, for three days, just for drinking.
Half an hour after the Last Water Point, we reach Mawenzi ridge, which provides a fabulous view of the Saddle, a desert-like expanse separating Kibo and Mawenzi.
The path cuts clear across the expanse. Left, right, left, right. We walk mechanically across the dry desert. The wind picks up. Frederick points out some fresh buffalo tracks. We just missed it. Why do they come up this high, I ask him. They come to look for salty rocks.
After three and a half hours of walking, we reach Jiwe la Ukoyo, Land of many rocks. This is the usual lunch spot, but we are going to press on to get to camp for lunch.
At this point we leave the main trail leading to Kibo huts, which we can see just ahead, and take a small, barely visible path toward the North. The path cuts across what they call 'scree' -- essentially volcanic gravel. We have another 300 m to climb. The path is steep and the gravel doesn't give a very solid footing. From time to time we scamper across steep rocky ledges, boulder to boulder. The effect of the thinning air is becoming noticeable, as the rhythms of my breathing and heart rate pick up. Luckily we are almost there.
When we arrive at School Hut, our tents are already set up. One large tent to sleep on and one housing a portable toilet (see photo).
Did they really carry all this up the mountain just for us? There are no other trekkers at School Hut -- it's just the two of is and our crew. In addition to the two tents I mentioned, they had also set up a large dining tent, where a hot lunch was already awaiting.
We are both a little sunburned through our clothing. We had put sunscreen on all exposed skins, but apparently that is not enough in the relentless mountain sun.
We are now at an altitude of 4720 m, the highest I have ever been. Uhuru peak is still almost 1200 m higher and Kibo is looming huge now from close up. Luckily we have another acclimatization day ahead.
We tried taking a nap in our tent, but the sun had heated it to some 60 C, so I'm writing this blog. Hopefully the temperature will drop soon, as we are both tired. So far no symptoms of altitude sickness and other than being tired, we are in high spirits.
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Location:School Hut, Kilimanjaro, Tanzania
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